The Transformation of Labuan Bajo

The Transformation of Labuan Bajo is remarkable, as it shifts from a sleepy seaside village to a thriving and vibrant tourist destination. Walking down the main street, evidence of progress is everywhere, with new buildings and businesses popping up before your eyes. And with a multi-million dollar investment from the Indonesian government, there is no reason to think it’ll slow down anytime soon. The government spend is earmarked for infrastructure to support the rapid growth and increased numbers of domestic and international visitors, safeguarding the sustainable future of Labuan Bajo.

Air Asia flights into Labuan Bajo herald a new era in travel, with budget flying options and standard inclusion fares that offer a new level of comfort for travellers. As tourist numbers continue to increase, particularly with the new marina opening and its 1000 person capacity convention center, the addition of new carrier and extra flight services to Labuan Bajo and the rest of Flores, is in fact, vital.

The exciting food scene in Labuan Bajo is enticing food lovers from all over the world, eager to try the diverse and lively cuisine on offer. From fine Italian dining, to Japanese restaurants, American style burgers, and more traditional Indonesian food like masakan padang and incredible fresh seafood, often sold in buckets by the side of the road, Labuan Bajo has something for everyone. The fish markets at the harbour have been attracting locals and tourists for years, who come to buy the freshest seafood and enjoy the daily catch shown off by the market holders. And now the markets are looking better than ever, after undergoing a total facelift, as well as having proper work stations installed to include running water and bins for waste management. They’ve also closed off the roads into the markets, so that stallholders can cook out in the open air, allowing people to wander through the stalls to try the fresh fish as they go, making the markets a major tourist drawcard.

The restaurants and eateries in Labuan Bajo are more conscious than ever of sustainability and responsible practices, and are sourcing fresh produce from local growers, removing single use plastics from their businesses, and encouraging patrons and staff to be more aware of these issues. This kind of awareness is a positive step in managing the rapid development and progress in Labuan Bajo, and ensuring a healthy future.

And similarly, there are groups all over Labuan Bajo taking this responsibility seriously, and working towards progressive and positive strategies to preserve the natural beauty of the region. Groups like DOCK Komodo and Trash Hero run regular education programs, and have established themselves as leaders in environmental practices that benefit the whole community. Regular clean ups, the ‘Save Money Save Komodo’ campaign, plus water refill stations all over town, are helping to reduce the amount of plastic seen in Labuan Bajo.

Progress is happening in Labuan Bajo, but with environmental and conservation initiatives and a collective effort towards positive development and change, the future is looking very bright indeed.

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https

The Original Hobbits

The Original Hobbits of Flores, also known as Homo floresiensis, were discovered through skeletal remains found on the island. We usually think of hobbits as fictional characters like Samwise and his gang of merry little men, tramping onwards in Tolkien’s celebrated Lord of the Rings series. But a more recent discovery by scientists of skeletal remains on Flores, has led to research into Homo Floresiens is or ‘Flores Man’, who was nicknamed ‘the hobbit’ due to his short stature and diminutive size.

In the late 90’s, a group of scientists from Indonesia and Australia were in Flores looking for evidence of human migration between the Asian and Australian continents. Scientists had theorised that the many similarities in appearance and culture between the indigenous peoples of these countries, as well as the prevalence of many of the same animals and plants, was due to migration.

In 2001, while investigating this theory, scientists found tools that seemed to pre-date the existence of mankind according to previously established timelines. Then in 2003 while digging in Liang Bua Cave on Flores, they made the exciting discovery of human bones. LB1 is now an almost complete skeleton, measuring 1.1metres in height, weighing no more than 25kg and was estimated to be around 30 years of age at her time of death. She is called the ‘Little Lady of Flores’ or ‘Flo’ for short.

There are now nine partial hobbit skeletons and while it was originally thought that Flores Man was about 12,000 years old, dating of bones and artefacts found with the skeletons actually puts the hobbit between 50,000 to 190,000 years old.

Now, intense research is underway to determine exactly who ‘Flo’ and Flores Man were. Some believe that Flores Man came to Flores many years ago, and that his unusually small size was due to climate and environmental conditions. However it is more commonly believed that Flores Man is in fact a distinct species of man that co-existed and lived side by side with Homo sapiens or Homo erectus. There is strong evidence to show that there are genetic and anatomical differences separating this man from other species of mankind.

Researchers involved the local people who live near Liang Bua in their investigations. Known as the Rampasasa tribe, they are a group of pygmies, and scientists were curious to see if there were any genetic similarities to connect the hobbit to the Rampasasa.

They enlisted translators to help with Indonesian and Manggarai dialect to explain the study they wanted to carry out. The Rampasasa group were mostly happy to be involved as they wanted to know more about their history. As the scientists were unable to extract DNA from the hobbit skeleton and directly compare, instead they looked for what was missing or what was alike. Then they compared the DNA from the Rampasasa people to other populations across Asia. They found nothing in common with the hobbit, however they found genetic similarities between the Rampasasa and the people of Papua New Guinea, the Solomons and Bismarck Archipelago. It also showed their migration was more recent than that of the Flores Man. This again gave weight to the theory that Flores Man was a separate species of man.

Flores is one of the Wallacean Islands, islands separated by the Wallace Line and the Lydekker Line. Referred to as a Wallacean Island as Flores has rarely, if ever, been connected to other parts of Asia or Australia by land bridges or land movement. Questions remain for scientists to continue to be baffled by and attempt to solve: How did the Flores Man get to Flores so long ago? Could this explain the species found only in existence on Flores such as the infamous Komodo dragon?

As a child, I spent hours searching through stones and rocks in our neighbourhood bushland, pretending to be an archaeologist making scientific discoveries. Researching the Flores Man had me re-discovering my long buried interest in archaeology and yearning to pack my bags in search of exploration and adventure.

If the archaeologist adventurer in you is inspired after reading this, we suggest further reading of our sources listed below. Plus you should probably book a trip to Flores and plan your own exploration of the beautiful islands!

Sources :

http://humanorigins.si.edu/research/asian-research-projects/hobbits-floresindonesia

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2018/08/news-homofloresiensis-hobbit-genetics-dna-pygmy-flores-island

http://theconversation.com/ancestors-of-flores-hobbits-may-have-beenpioneers-of-first-human-migration-out-of-africa-76560

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https://thetravellistindonesia.com/) on behalf of Love Komodo.

Maumere TV

Maumere TV is a leading edge news and media broadcaster, featuring local content from Sikka Uneng City, Alok, and East Nusa Tenggara, found only on Facebook. Using new technologies that allow mobile journalism and up-to-the-minute reporting, Maumere TV is at the forefront of modern journalism in Indonesia.

Maumere TV, was founded on 17th December, 2016 and is a Facebook-based television with local content from Sikka Uneng City, Alok, East Nusa Tenggara.

Contact:

Email: tvmaumere@gmail.com

Facebook

Managers: Rully Said, Herman Yoseph Ferdy (basic PR communication), Bernard Lazar (basic journalism), Rini Kartini (basic broadcasting).

Maumere TV started with an idea from Rully and Ferdy, who saw that increasingly sophisticated technology, especially mobile phone technology with audio-visual media, was changing journalism. Ferdy thought of creating journalistic content, which at that time was still not considered to be a viable business idea in the region.

Rully who has a lot of experience in the field of journalism, and had worked at the large multinational, “Reuters”, recruited Rini Kartini to the concept and management role. He was also supported by Bernard who had basic journalism knowledge, and Ferdy with his communication skills, and together they developed Facebook-based television, featuring local content from the Sikka district of East Nusa Tenggara.

Maumere TV in addition to presenting Sikka News, and programs such as Citizen Journalism, Citizen Journalism Guidelines, and Our Figures and Perspectives, also provides advertising columns for people who want to advertise businesses or notices.

Maumere TV is currently developing mobile journalism to enable freelance reporters or staff to use portable devices such as smartphones, tablets, digital cameras or laptops to collect, photograph, broadcast live, edit, or share news. News can then be sent to the newsroom or can be shared instantly on social media by Mojo.

Maumere TV is housed in Imagination production house, which creates audio-visual content, produces company profiles, advertorials, commercial advertisements, public service announcements, television mini documentaries and music shows. Imagination has also built partnerships with important institutions in the Flores and Adonara regions, who produce magazines, books, magazine layouts and poster designs.

As Maumere TV has grown, public appreciation was so good that several times it was invited as a speaker in TV journalism to provide training in schools and colleges. Likewise, in November 2018 Maumere TV had the opportunity to present at the International Consortium in Jakarta to discuss the Disaster Risk Reduction issue.

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https://thetravellistindonesia.com/) on behalf of Love Komodo.

Maumere Tsunami

The events of December 12th, 1992, changed life in SouthEast Asia forever. The earthquake and tsunami that tore through the region, killing thousands and displacing many more, was particularly devastating to the inhabitants of the relatively unknown city of Maumere. Here we learn more about how it has changed the lives of people, and their home, forever.

The magnitude 7.8 earthquake, hitting off the coast of Flores, Indonesia, triggered a 36 metre high tsunami, killing over 2000 people, and displacing more than 5000. According to sources, 18 000 homes were lost on that day, 113 schools destroyed and hundreds of roads, buildings and other vital infrastructure was lost. Most affected were the Sikka Regency, Ngada Regency, Ende Regency and East Flores Regency, and worst hit of all was the city of Maumere.

The Nusa Tengarra region is an active earthquake region, and to date, there have been over 24 major earthquakes recorded here. The high level of seismic activity is due to shifting tectonic plates underneath Indonesia. The Eurasian (Sunda) Plate and Australian Plate (Sahul Shelf) meet with two oceanic plates, the Philippine Sea Plate and Pacific Plate, causing dramatic seismic ruptures in the region.

The 1992 earthquake originated under the ocean floor, just north of Maumere. It triggered the tsunami that started in Tanjung Palaboko (west) spanning to Tanjung Bunga (east). In Maumere, the capital of the Sikka Regency, the earthquake was felt so strongly that it immediately caused hundreds of buildings to collapse. Some coastal villages sank because of the sinking land mass, and a few minutes after this first disaster, when people were still in shock and with many casualties, the ocean started to rise, with the first of the high waves hitting the coast.

The tsunami sent walls of water towards the coastline, obliterating buildings, and washing ships ashore and even tossing up the cement-laden pontoons usually found on the seabed off Maumere. The destructive power of the tsunami intensified, as waves entered the narrow bays, causing the waves to surge even higher and severly impact places like Maumere Bay and Hading Bay. Subsidence of the land occurred in two locations around Hading Bay (Larantuka) causing the land to drop to a height of 40 metres in some places, and spanning over a kilometre in length, wiping out entitre coastal communities. And of course, it was devastating to the people of Indonesia, with countless lives lost in many locations, and in particular at Babi Island and Tanjung Bunga.

In Maumere, the tsunami and earthquake devastated more than just the land and its beautiful people. It also wiped out much of its reefs and marine life, vital for the economy of coastal villages like Maumere. The landscape of Maumere was changed forever on that day, 27 years ago. However with time and the input of many amazing organisations and individuals, the region has recovered and rebuilt. In fact, the tsunami and earthquake created some surprising new features in the region. Near the severely impacted Babi Island, a tsunami fault formed at a depth of 10-16 metres under the sea. Now known as ‘The Crack’, this natural fracture in the seabed has become densely populated with corals and marine life, and is now a popular dive spot. One of only four in the world (the others are found in Thailand, Maldives, and Sri Lanka), it attracts divers and tourists who are keen to explore and dive the very special natural phenomenon. From West Alok District in the west, to Talibura District in the east, there are 30 dive sites to choose from, with vibrant underwater coral reefs teeming with healthy marine life, fish, seaweeds and the stunning Lembeh sea dragon. It took some time, but Maumere, Babi Islands and ‘The Crack’ are proof of the irrepressible natural beauty of Indonesia.

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https://thetravellistindonesia.com/) on behalf of Love Komodo.

Keling and Wae Riding

We have been fortunate in the past to interview Marsel, a good friend and Flores local, who owns and runs a Bali tour company, introducing travellers to the beautiful islands of Flores. Marsel told us about his local primary school that needs new tables and chairs for its 120 students. The primary school takes children from five surrounding villages, with many students walking a two-hour round-trip to get to and from school.

The school and villages are remote, inaccessible by car, and not easily reached by motorbike either for that matter. During wet season, the only way in or out is by foot. During medical emergencies, for example for pregnant women or if someone is sick, they rely on community members to carry them on the one hour journey along the rough path to the main road. There they can get the ‘taxi truck’ to drive them another bumpy hour and half to the nearest hospital. It makes you wonder how many babies have been born en-route.

Our adventure started early, as our group including Marsel, his family Robi and Iren, and Clare from The Travellist for Love Komodo, headed off at 6am to begin the long journey to the school. It’s a three-hour trip there with much of the road only suitable for trail bikes. It’s bumpy and rocky and in some places completely eroded by the rain, years of heavy traffic and lack of road maintenance or repairs.

We made lots of stops along the way, for coffee and breaks from the bumpy roads, plus there were so many opportunities for spectacular photos. But finally we made it to the meeting point at a village near the school. The truck was there as were so many of the students and people from the village, aseveryone came out to see what was going on. The truck was unloaded, and the students all carried several chairs each on their heads as they walked an hour to the school. At this point, the road is inaccessible to the truck so people transport is the only option, and it’s worth noting that some of these kids were as young as seven years old.

We arrived at the school and Clare was not embarrassed to admit, she had tears and a lump in her throat when she saw the whole school had come out to greet them, immaculate in their uniforms and traditional clothes. They performed a welcome dance and ceremony that was truly beautiful – the joy on the kids faces as they danced, and the giggles as they snuck a peak at this tall Western woman, made Clare’s day. Pak Roni and Ibu Yati were gracious hosts and we can’t thank them enough for inviting Clare into their school.

We were invited to lunch and Clare sat and listened as Marsel and the school leaders discussed important matters, like the state of the roads, the environment, and of course the kids needs at school. Clare’s very proud to be part of The Voice of Flores team who were able to contribute to the new tables and chairs, and we have also committed to assisting with new books and pencils for the kids. All of this new and much needed equipment will arrive at the school via the ‘taxi truck’ and be carried to the school again by the same smiling children.

Most households in these villages do not have any fresh running water. During wet season this is manageable, but after six months without rain, water runs low and someone from each house must walk up to 5kms every day balancing a pole and heavy containers across their head or shoulders to fill with fresh water. In the heat, over what could be described as a very rocky and steep path at best. Clare has never had to consider how the condition of a road or lack of running water could threaten her health and safety, but in these villages, this is the reality. Safe drinking water, roads and electricity are services we often take for granted in cities and towns. A lack of electricity for a few hours or longer, is more of an inconvenience than a permanent way of life. However here in these villages, the majority of homes have no electricity at all and those that do, only have electricity for a few hours a day.

Clare have been very fortunate to have met and worked with some truly incredible and passionate people, and spending this time with Marsel at his school, gave her an insight into his commitment to help the villages he calls home. Already feeling emotional about her visit, the school then said it had been an honour to meet her, and presented her with a stunning Manggarai sarong. Through Marsel’s translation and Clare’s tears, Clare told them that the honour was in fact all hers, and they would be forever in her thoughts. Clare’s not sure if her tears embarrassed Marsel but she didn’t have time to ask, before we were back on the bumpy road and trail bike ride to Marsel’s home.

Ignasius and Margereta, Marsel’s parents, couldn’t have made Clare feel more welcome, and invited us to stay and share a meal with the whole family. Despite the language barrier, it was so lovely to listen to their stories and learn more about villages like this where people live on the land and have a deep respect for the environment upon which their livelihood and health depend. Sadly, a lack of time meant that we couldn’t stay as long as we would have liked, but Clare would certainly love to visit and stay longer next time. Clare want to say a huge thank you to Marsel’s family for being so wonderful and taking her into their home.

The day was life changing for Clare, meeting such beautiful people and learning about a way of life so different to her own. The landscape was breathtaking, and unlike anything else she have ever seen. The coast and blue ocean of Labuan Bajo giving way to rice terraces as far as the eye can see, and then thick green jungle, offering welcome relief from the heat. Wild monkeys ran around us, we rode through creeks and rivers, and some of the steep roads had Clare just holding on, closing her eyes and hoping for the best. Flores is truly a magical and spectacular place and you simply MUST visit, but be prepared to fall in love hard and never want to leave.

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https://thetravellistindonesia.com/) on behalf of Love Komodo.

The Way Flores Makes Me Feel

No sooner had we landed in Flores, we were whisked away in the courtesy car from La Cecile, checked in and then it was onto sunset drinks on the balcony. Two slurps into my cocktail, and I was declaring undying love for Flores and making somewhat hasty plans to move there. With no consideration to what I would actually do in Flores, it seemed like a perfectly plausible thing to do. You see Flores is full of people who, like me, fell in love at first glance and just made a bee-line for a new island life.

And Flores is a place where you can do that. There’s a sense of adventure and even though it’s hardly a new place, you do feel like an intrepid explorer going off on motorbikes, looking at bays and coves and mountains and daring to imagine what could be. In reality, having a plan might be a more practical move as Flores is still developing and if you’ve spent time in Bali, you could be fooled into thinking you are just coming to another island like Bali.

Trust me, you aren’t. Flores and Bali are nothing alike, except that they do capture the hearts of many travellers. The best way I can describe Flores is ‘wild west’ meets Indonesia. It wouldn’t be out of place to see a man in cowboy boots kick in the saloon doors of the bar on the main street, and wonderfully on our first night in Flores a man did actually come to dinner with a cowboy hat on.

You could be forgiven for thinking that the main port of Flores, Labuan Bajo, is ramshackle and run down, but upon closer inspection you’ll realise it’s just that development is booming at a pace that means it almost can’t keep up. There are brand new footpaths but with the rubble dug up alongside, still waiting for collection. There are tin sheds making way for fabulous local and international restaurants, markets and stalls mixing with boutiques, and companies like Ayana and Plataran are building stunning properties for those who want luxury while exploring.

Walking along the main street there is a definite sense of excitement bubbling away under the new tarmac, you can just feel that something big is happening and the predictions by the Indonesian government were right – Flores is THE spot in Indonesia right now. I managed to stop gawping at sunset from the balcony of La Cecile to look at the number of boats in the harbour. Certainly more than when I was last in Flores two years ago, with a mixture of yachts, luxury phinisi, fishing boats and tour boats vying for prime position on the piers.

After talking to some lovely locals and expats, I realised anything is possible in Flores. If you want to open an Italian restaurant and supply it with your own organic produce from your farm, you can. Anyone who knows Labuan Bajo knows I’m talking about Made in Italy and the chef’s incredible farms that supply his kitchen – but that’s a story for another article. You can come here with plans to regenerate the reefs of Indonesia and stumble across more projects along the way. You can buy a beautiful phinisi boat and turn it into a five star floating luxury resort, which I had the pleasure of spending the weekend aboard (you must check out Voyage Mischief!).

I know I sound very starry eyed and as an expat living in Bali, I know that there are always issues to deal with. The ‘#cocktailsbythepool’ lifestyle doesn’t last long once you get stuck into work or whatever project brings you here. But as an expat who loves listening to stories of what Bali was like way back when, I feel as though being in Flores at this time means we are a part of the change, and the stories that will be told of the Flores from before.

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” — Jawaharlal Nehru

Written by the team from The Travellist Indonesia (https://the-travellist.com/ and https://thetravellistindonesia.com/) on behalf of Love Komodo.